Friday, March 24, 2017

Anniversary Vacation Notes 2017: Day 5: 2/20 Monday: Rome

We started the day with an early-morning breakfast at our new favorite coffee shop in Genova—at the train station, before boarding the 6:30 AM train to Rome.

How fast does a fast train go? I don’t know exactly. But the trip from Genova to Rome took approximately 3 and one-half hours. Even without accounting for a couple of stops along the way, 2 or 3, that’s still an impressive 72 MPH. That may not be TGV speed, which allegedly zips along at 190mph, but it’s still pretty fast.

For the record: I’m not exactly sure why I’m using the Italian spelling for Genoa and the English for Roma, but I digress.

All city-spellings aside, calling this a trip to Rome is not really accurate.  Although we’d be passing through Rome, we’d pre-purchased tickets for a guided tour of the Vatican. That is where we would be spending most of our day.

Upon arriving in the Rome Terminus station our first order of business was to determine which metro line would take us to the Vatican. I’d like to say that as seasoned travelers, who’d been to Rome in the past, and therefore had theoretically already paid the idiot tax, that we would intuitively know which train led to the Vatican. That was not the case. We were clueless.

It was at that exact clueless moment that I overheard another pair of lost travelers discussing a similar issue. It was a mother and son. They’d been informed by someone I presumed to be knowledgeable that the “A” train was the one that would get you to the Vatican. Apparently, I really had already paid the idiot tax because I knew where the “A” train was! I offered them assistance and directed them to the “B” line. (No, I didn’t really do that; that would be cruel.)

My wife and I proceeded to make our own ticket purchase, went to our platform, boarded the train and we were on our way to Vatican City.

Getting off at the designated stop it was obvious that nothing would be obvious. There was no sign pointing to St. Peter’s Cathedral. The buildings rose up all around us, with no useful gaps. There was no hope of sighting any potentially helpful landmark.

But we were nothing if not lucky travelers. There were a couple of policemen nearby engaged in—I can’t say for sure what they were engaged in, it seemed to be a cross between an argument and a conversation. I don’t know which it was but they did seem to be having a good time.

“To the corner and left,” they said, or at least one of them did. Actually he only nodded in a general direction. But he did make sounds that seemed affirmative.

We went to the corner indicated and turned left and –nothing! But not really nothing. This is Rome and in Rome they have people, people with badges, whose job it is to spot people like us, uninformed tourist, and point us in the right direction.

We gave him the address where we were expecting to meet our tour group. He directed us, not so much to the Vatican but towards the place of the address, which turned out to be a pizza shop about two blocks away.

I think we can be forgiven for assuming that if this address was the meeting place then we must be gathering inside the pizza parlor, but that was not the case. Our rendezvous point was on exactly the address as stated, on the sidewalk. For future reference, meeting on a sidewalk is probably a sure sign that you are not being ripped off. Only scam artists would bother with the expense of an impressive store-front (That’s probably, not an entirely true statement, but it seemed to make sense when I wrote it.)

We, and apparently one other guy, had signed up for the English-speaking tour. He was a no-show. The tour group wound up just being the three of us: my wife, myself, and our guide, Elizabet.

After a short delay, waiting for the no-show, we started towards Vatican City, on foot. There was a little zigging and zagging involved getting there but it was only about two blocks away.

Soon we were out of Rome and standing on the grounds of Vatican City, an independent state in its own right. However, to get into the city we had to first wander past an impressive show of Italian military might. I like to image that they were there in order to contain the Swiss Guard and ward off a possible pontifical invasion of Italy, but the sad reality is that they appeared to be positioned in areas that would be vulnerable to the undesired intrusion of large motorized vehicles into the crowds.

OK, this is the part where I should start saying wondrous and glorious things about the Vatican museum, and I wouldn’t be wrong to do so. There were countless Roman copies of Greek statues as well as countless genuine examples of Roman statues inspired by Greek statues and possibly some Greek statues. Mosaic marble floors, elaborate ceilings—not just the Sistine Chapel—faux sculptures (grisaille for all you art students), tapestries, and more. We saw walls decorated in the Grotesque style, which we learned means inspired by the walls of the Christian grottos. There were works by Raphael and Michelangelo and basically any artist of note—except perhaps Picasso.

Nothing was spared from the excessive and one might say overwhelming ornamentation: floors, ceilings, doorways. Any normal person with even a minor appreciation of art is likely to experience a touch of art nirvana at the enormity and quality of the display. If you’re offended by the notion of any church accumulating great wealth then you might rightfully experience extreme nausea.

Which breed of observer am I? That’s hard to say. Obviously the self-aggrandizement of some of the popes ripped any spiritual aspect out of some of the artwork. Evidence that the artist themselves could sometimes devolve into childish behavior was also evident. Raphael liked to include portraits of himself, and his friends, in his artworks. Michelangelo seemed to prefer to indulge in unflattering depictions of his critics.  Yet, in spite of the sometime pettiness of the patrons and the artist, and the socialistic desires to redistribute the wealth there comes a point where art wins out. The depictions become more than drawings or statues and instead represent the intangible, the hidden hook that defines art.

Obviously we saw way too much to mention it all; there are entire books devoted to every nook within the Vatican, but I have to make some mention of the obvious. 

Let’s start with the Sistine Chapel.

As a former Catholic I suppose I should start out with a preventative, “Bless me father for I have sinned…” The sin: blasphemy, blasphemy-minor.

What? No, of course the Sistine Chapel is beautiful! Are you nuts? However, there is a qualifier. Michelangelo only did the roof, technically the ceiling, and the front wall. There are three other levels of murals in the Sistine Chapel and, to be kind, they are not Michelangelo.

The middle level featured the work of Sandro Botticelli, Pietro Perugino, Pinturicchio, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Cosimo Roselli. They told the story of Jesus on one wall, and Moses on the other. The fresco’s wrapped around the walls of the Sistine Chapel bringing both stories to a unified conclusion on the front wall of the chapel. However, Michelangelo felt that he needed that front-wall space in order to complete his work, so he painted over the endings of the life of Jesus and Moses.

On the lowest ring of the Sistine Chapel are painted curtains. It’d a damn fine job of fake curtain painting had they been done anyplace anywhere else. But here? To stand in comparison to that ceiling? It wasn’t fair.

So, yes, Michelangelo is to blame for the failings of the Sistine Chapel. Compared to what he did with the front wall and the ceiling the remainder of the Sistine Chapel looks like the kid stuff that you stick on the refrigerator door—and trust me, it would require some very talented kids, but still the disparity exists.

We were only allowed ten minutes in the chapel, which is the norm. We were implored to be quiet and respectful; this is more of a request than it once was as the Swiss Guard no longer impales violators. A prayer was said during our ten-minute observation period by the presiding clergy.

As previously mentioned we were part of a tour group (group of 2, but that still counts). I recommend this as the only way to go to the Vatican Museum as it gets you though the secret entrances (doors) that only tour-guides have access to.

Our next big-ticket stop was Michelangelo’s Pieta. There is no obvious indication of the damage done in 1979, although it does now sits behind a protective barrier. Carved from one piece of marble—blah, blah history lesson. Forget the history for the moment or that Michelangelo was just twenty-four when he carved the Pieta and was just beginning to flex his muscles. To see the Pieta in person is to experience living stone (marble). There’s blood coursing through those veins! Well there was, Jesus is actually depicted as dead. But the sorrow of his mother, though obviously drained, is very much alive.

There are subtle symbolisms carved into the masterpiece, none of which I was previously aware. Mary, the virgin mother, is indeed filled with a palatable sorrow, but her face is of someone younger than that of her son, Jesus.  And Jesus, himself, is not like most figures created in this era. He is not the typical Herculean figure, but he is weak, emaciated, and lifeless in his mother’s arms.

The clock stops for no one, even when you’re standing in the presence of greatness. We were running late, we’d hired a car to get us back to the mother (cruise) ship. We sent our regrets to Pope Francis, who I understood had prepared an impressive cheese dish for our lunch. That may be the only meeting that I’ll ever regret missing.

With some confusion we were eventually able to get back on board. Apparently the cruise ship had experienced some computer problems while we were in Rome and nobody had been able to disembark. They’d been stuck in port all day. We returned to our room and prepared for dinner at our newly assigned table.

I guess as punishment our previous dinner assignment was changed, still the assigned dinner table idea is nice. The dinner buffet is nice too, but you seldom talk with the other guests in the buffet. Assigned dinner seating encourages the on-board buddy system. Our new dinner companions were a career British military man, his wife a small museum curator (She was normal size; the museum is small.) A second British couple who ran their own hypnotherapy clinic. They were very engaging; I gave them my wallet before we left. The third couple at our table was a seemingly nice pair, but a little more secretive than the rest of us. I suspected a Mr. & Mrs. Smith type of thing, although likely retired.

Tomorrow we pull into Palermo, Sicily for a short stay--from around 10:00 AM to 6:30PM.



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